Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don is an evergreen shrub of the Asteraceae family whose aerial parts are a source of essential oil. For this study, flowering samples have been harvested and hydrodistilled in July 2016 and the obtained essential oil has been characterized by means of GC/MS. Overall, 68 compounds were identified, of which over 30% are oxygenated monoterpenes: among these compounds, nerol and its esters are the most represented ones, with neryl acetate as the most abundant (15.4%) component of the EO. This pattern is reported in the literature for other H. italicum EOs (1, 2). The characteristic helichrysum β- diketones known as italidiones were detected in the composition: 4, 6, 9-trimethyl-8-decene-3, 5-dione (italidione I) and 2, 4, 6, 9-tetramethyl-8-decene-3, 5-dione (italidione II) showed the most relevant relative abundances. For a long time, the essential oil of H. italicum (Roth) G. Don has been used in the preparation of cosmetic products for skin care, including anti-aging products (5). The collagenase activity can be stimulated by several factors as well as UV light: this causes degradation of matrix proteins and skin aging. Elastase are proteolytic enzymes in the dermis that are responsible for the degradation of elastin in the extracellular matrix. The loss of elastin plays a significant role in the development of the visible signs of aging (wrinkles, sagging) in the skin (6). The essential oil of H. italicum inhibited the collagenase (Fig. 1) and elastase (Fig. 2) activities with an IC50 (μg/ml) of 36.99±1.52 and 235±6.32, respectively. Values shown represent the mean ± SD from five independent experiments. These inhibition activities have been compared with those of oleanolic acid, which is a skin-protective pentacyclic triterpene. As evidenced, the elastase inhibition effect is particularly relevant. To the best of our knowledge, there is no other published study dealing with the inhibiting effect of H. italicum EO on these enzymes activities.
The antiaging properties of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G.Don essential oil: collagenase and elastase inhibition activities
ASCRIZZI, ROBERTA;FLAMINI, GUIDO;
2017-01-01
Abstract
Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don is an evergreen shrub of the Asteraceae family whose aerial parts are a source of essential oil. For this study, flowering samples have been harvested and hydrodistilled in July 2016 and the obtained essential oil has been characterized by means of GC/MS. Overall, 68 compounds were identified, of which over 30% are oxygenated monoterpenes: among these compounds, nerol and its esters are the most represented ones, with neryl acetate as the most abundant (15.4%) component of the EO. This pattern is reported in the literature for other H. italicum EOs (1, 2). The characteristic helichrysum β- diketones known as italidiones were detected in the composition: 4, 6, 9-trimethyl-8-decene-3, 5-dione (italidione I) and 2, 4, 6, 9-tetramethyl-8-decene-3, 5-dione (italidione II) showed the most relevant relative abundances. For a long time, the essential oil of H. italicum (Roth) G. Don has been used in the preparation of cosmetic products for skin care, including anti-aging products (5). The collagenase activity can be stimulated by several factors as well as UV light: this causes degradation of matrix proteins and skin aging. Elastase are proteolytic enzymes in the dermis that are responsible for the degradation of elastin in the extracellular matrix. The loss of elastin plays a significant role in the development of the visible signs of aging (wrinkles, sagging) in the skin (6). The essential oil of H. italicum inhibited the collagenase (Fig. 1) and elastase (Fig. 2) activities with an IC50 (μg/ml) of 36.99±1.52 and 235±6.32, respectively. Values shown represent the mean ± SD from five independent experiments. These inhibition activities have been compared with those of oleanolic acid, which is a skin-protective pentacyclic triterpene. As evidenced, the elastase inhibition effect is particularly relevant. To the best of our knowledge, there is no other published study dealing with the inhibiting effect of H. italicum EO on these enzymes activities.I documenti in IRIS sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.
