The use of natural dyes in several areas is regulated by current European and non-European legislation, due to various problems with synthetic dyes. The analysis revealed that the lichen studied: Xanthoria parietina has potential natural dye sources and provides bright colors for extraction solvents. Furthermore, dyed wool and toile fabric have good fastness properties in ammonia fermentation and boiling water, both with and without mordants. The sample dyes with Xanthoria parietina were characterized by several analytical techniques: high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) and electrospray ionization with tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-ToF). As compounds from Xanthoria parietina form a complex with mordants and tissues, it is impossible to identify the molecules responsible for coloring using chromatographic techniques. However, we have evaluated the dyeing power of their major molecule, parietin. To further confirm the coloring power of the isolated parietin molecule, we performed a dye test with pure parietin. Thus, CIALAB analyses have shown parietin is the molecule responsible for the coloring obtained by Xanthoria parietina. The utilization of parietin derived from lichens facilitates the development of sustainable dyes for textile coloring, presenting an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic dyes while simultaneously enriching lichen biodiversity.

Parietin, the Vibrant Natural Dye in Xanthoria parietina

Sabatini, Francesca;Degano, Ilaria;
2024-01-01

Abstract

The use of natural dyes in several areas is regulated by current European and non-European legislation, due to various problems with synthetic dyes. The analysis revealed that the lichen studied: Xanthoria parietina has potential natural dye sources and provides bright colors for extraction solvents. Furthermore, dyed wool and toile fabric have good fastness properties in ammonia fermentation and boiling water, both with and without mordants. The sample dyes with Xanthoria parietina were characterized by several analytical techniques: high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) and electrospray ionization with tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-ToF). As compounds from Xanthoria parietina form a complex with mordants and tissues, it is impossible to identify the molecules responsible for coloring using chromatographic techniques. However, we have evaluated the dyeing power of their major molecule, parietin. To further confirm the coloring power of the isolated parietin molecule, we performed a dye test with pure parietin. Thus, CIALAB analyses have shown parietin is the molecule responsible for the coloring obtained by Xanthoria parietina. The utilization of parietin derived from lichens facilitates the development of sustainable dyes for textile coloring, presenting an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic dyes while simultaneously enriching lichen biodiversity.
2024
Mendili, Mohamed; Khadhri, Ayda; Sabatini, Francesca; Degano, Ilaria; Aschi‐smiti, Samira
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/11568/1221336
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